View of Goree Island from the ferry

When our friend Kareem emailed us a tentative itinerary for Senegal, the first stop was Île de Gorée, not far from his home. Despite its colorful history and designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, I had never heard of the place. As our ferry arrived, I was struck by the vibrancy of the place; it seemed to pulsate with life, and bright colors were everywhere.

After lunch, when we met up with our spectacular guide, Ali, however, I learned the true story of the island: for centuries, it served as the primary port for the slave trade.

Suddenly, it felt a little off to be soaking up sunshine and colorful architecture in a place where so many lost their lives and were sold into slavery.

Part of the biggest slave holding house on the island

As Ali took us through the slave house, he showed us the tiny rooms where more than twenty men might be shackled together awaiting sale, with almost no sunlight and no place but the floor to relieve themselves.

One of the punishment cells.

He showed us the cells where they kept those they thought needed to be punished. The ceilings are so low, it’s impossible for an adult to stand up inside. Sometimes these cells were so crowded, the biggest problems the guards had was figuring out how to close the door. People were only kept in these cells for one day, two at most, however, because it would be bad for business if the men who were about to be sold were sick or weak from the confinement.

The passageway where a man could select and purchase the virgin of his choice

He showed us the room where the virgins were kept, complete with viewing windows so those who came to purchase slaves could also come pick out a virgin of his choosing, whom he could purchase and rape for the duration of his stay. If one of these women became pregnant, she was allowed to roam the island until she gave birth, at which point both she and her baby would be free, and have the rights to own slaves themselves.

Door of No Return

He showed us the so-called Door of No Return, through which all slaves passed, shackled together to board a ship. Because many people preferred to jump to their deaths rather than enter slavery, guards were stationed at the door to shoot any who attempted to defect. That way he wouldn’t pull the others he was shackled to into the water with him; rather, his peers would have to drag his body on board with them. This is also the door through which they threw anyone who was ill. It was considered more fiscally responsible to throw a sick person into the ocean than to risk having him infect the other slaves. As a result, sharks were known to wait, circling near this door, because it was such a rich source of food. They also would follow slave ships on their routes, ready to consume the many bodies thrown overboard.

Dischordant: a beautiful view from the second floor...of the slave house, where traders would relax and entertain.

By the time we boarded the ferry home, my heart didn’t know quite what to feel. It’s impossible not to feel the weight and solemnity and horror of the island’s history, and yet it didn’t feel right to discount the joy and life that fill the island today. It has a vibrant arts community, one of the most respected girls’ schools in the country, and tons of children running around with smiles on their faces. So, with all the respect its past deserves, today I choose to leave you with some pictures showing the life that pulsates through this island.

The girls' school. Top students are selected and educated for free. They live in this well-protected compound, and return to the mainland on weekends to visit with family.

Two of my favorite things: wildlife & art

An artist creating works on panel using glue and different colored sands, all of which come from Senegal

Hanging laundry, selling jewelry

Malian mudcloths and other textiles for sale

The soccer field

Next time: pictures from our road trip across Senegal.

In the back of the truck on our safari in Sementi, Senegal.

Sometimes when you travel, you see things that make all the moolah and jetlag worth it; sometimes when you travel, you realize something inside you has shifted.

Here in Senegal, something has shifted.

I’m no stranger to the transformative power of travel. When Michael visited friends in Rwanda years ago (the same friends we’re staying with now, actually), it spurred him to figure out how to live abroad and travel more. When my dad first went to Lucca, Italy, many years ago, it prompted him to quit his job, teach himself Italian, and write an absolutely brilliant book because he couldn’t find the one he wanted.

In many ways, I’m not surprised that being in a new place has stirred something up. Then I remember that up until a year or so ago, Africa was a place I never really cared about visiting. It fell into the “Yeah, that’d be cool, but I’d rather go to [insert awesome place]” category.

Now, all of the sudden, I find myself fantasizing about my return to this amazing continent, even though I haven’t left it yet. I pester our friends with questions and google like it’s my job, both to learn more about this place and try to find a proper space for it in my life going forward. As of right now, I’ve got ideas, but I also know I need some distance and time to sit with them for a bit.

Soon I’ll post proper stories and pictures about this leg of our journey, but for now, I’ll leave you with just a few faves.

A woman hanging laundry in Kedougu, Senegal

Sunset through the baobob trees in a mountaintop village

[Scheduling note: While traveling, I'm trying to post weekly on Mondays, though I'll post on the occasional Friday, too, if I find enough time near a computer.]

What about you? Ever been transformed by a travel experience?

Source: New York Times // Mubarek supporters throwing gasoline at their adversaries

Huhwha? Tickets to Cairo? Now? Yup. We plopped down a nice big chunk of money literally the day before the country erupted. More than a few people have asked what on earth we plan to do with those tickets. We can’t use them, can we?

Well, probably not, but we really don’t know. And that’s the beauty of not planning an open-ended trip like this. The me of two years ago would never have even considered going on a vacation like this, let alone find it exciting. Now I relish the unknown. I was thinking about this shift while sitting at a German-style beer-and-sausage house celebrating my cousin’s 30^th birthday together with a friend from my first-and-only semester of graduate school, who also happened to be celebrating her birthday that night. We got to talking about risk, and what compels some people to do something risky when others would abstain.

I was initially surprised to hear that she thought of me as a bit of a risk-taker. Then again, I dropped out of a prestigious graduate program, moved 7,000 miles away, to a country I’d never seen and a language I didn’t know, to take a job I didn’t know much about and live with a man I’d known for approximately five months.

Here’s the kicker though: that move? Not risky. Everything—every single aspect—could be rectified if it didn’t work out. I could always fly home, quit my job, get another cheap apartment in Philadelphia, leave the relationship.

Source: www.fels.upenn.edu -- my one-time graduate school

What was risky was staying put in a situation that didn’t work for me. Staying in my fire-trap apartment, working at my infuriating job, paying money and stressing out for a degree that would prepare me for a job that I was good at but didn’t make me happy. That’s a risk. [This is the same reason I'm such a believer in quitting.]

So this big trip that starts on Tuesday? Straight up adventure. I got my shots for yellow fever and meningitis and typhoid and a handful of other things I don’t even remember. I have international health insurance for catastrophes and enough money set aside so I could fly home at any time if things turn disastrous.

In fact, by purchasing one-way tickets, we mitigated the risk rather than adding to it. If I had a set itinerary and a specific return date, my stubborn self would insist on doing every damn thing on that list, whether I was liking it or not, whether my health was intact or in shambles. By leaving it open-ended, I have freed myself to do what seems rewarding—and only that. If at any point I feel tapped out and just need to get home, I can do that.  If I need to just stay in one place for a few extra nights, I can find a cheap hostel and do that, too.

Source: http://www.flickr.com/photos/onesevenone // This Israeli beach doesn't look like a bad place to chill out and recharge should the need arise

As for those Cairo tickets, who knows what will become of them. If things settle down, I think it would be fascinating to be in Egypt so soon after a revolution; if the situation still doesn’t seem safe (which is what I anticipate), maybe we spend more time in Jordan instead. Maybe we go somewhere else altogether.

If you’re looking for a reliable, even-handed account of what’s happening in Egypt, this MotherJones.com post is regularly updated and gives thorough step-by-step reporting. The English-language branch of AlJazeera also seems to be a good source. Lastly, I’ve been following the developments on Twitter, which has been fascinating and enlightening. I would recommend following the #Jan25 and #Egypt trending tags, as well as @bencnn, @arabist, @SultanAlQassemi, and @ShadiHamid.

What’s the biggest risk you’ve taken? What have you done that may have appeared risky to others, but felt like the safest option to you?

Here are some of my favorite moments from the last two weeks of our trip.

In Berkeley with an amazing view of the San Francisco Bay. We stopped off to visit my just-back-in-the-States cousin and his wonderful family.

We saw some beautiful elk near Jedediah Smith Redwood State Park

I often refer to my darling husband as "my giant". He looks downright puny next to that redwood. That's no small feat.

Here I am, crouching inside a fallen redwood trunk.

With my dear friend, Melinda (of www.ICookWithWine.com), in front of the Golden Gate Bridge.

Wine tasting with our San Francisco hosts Melinda and Kevin, the ever-gracious oenophiles.

Michael took this great shot of one of the vineyards.

Doing my requisite yoga in the tasting room. Normal, right? No?

The green roof at the California Academy of Sciences made me feel like I was living in Dr. Seuss book.

This was my first visit to Alcatraz, and I was mesmerized by the decrepit buildings.

Our friends' dog, Grey, who happens to be awesome.

This rhino, in the San Diego Safari Park, is one of only SEVEN of its kind left in the world. Seeing it was at once awesome and heartbreaking.

I have so many thoughts about this trip–from what I learned about how to stay healthy while doing extended traveling to trying to sort out my feelings about zoos–but I’m still reflecting on much of the last four weeks. I can’t wait to see how the next adventure, which is less than a week away, is going to boggle my mind.

Limekiln State Park

The other day, Michael and I were hiking to a waterfall in Limekiln State Park when we questioned if we were on the right path. The sign for the Falls Trail pointed directly to…a river. A very small, very shallow river, but a cold river nonetheless. M picked his way across the (slippery) rocks to other side to see if it was indeed the trail; he reported that it seems you have to cross the river three or four times to hook on to the trail.

No big deal, right?

At sunrise

Here’s the thing. I was exhausted; the night before was my very first camping experience, and it had been so cold, I literally couldn’t sleep despite, two pairs of socks, warm pants, four layers of shirts/sweaters/jackets, a hat, a hood, and a three-season sleeping bag.  And we were about to head to Big Sur, fulfilling a dream I’d had for over a decade. I did not want to slip and fall while shimmying across a log or trying to hop from one water-covered rock to another.

I told M he could go on ahead, and I was going to stay put and take photos rather than hurt myself or get too cold again.

Near the first crossing

Then a mom and dad with a five-year-old passed us to go along the path. Damn. This did not sit well with my very stubborn, far-too-proud self. Then another couple was coming down the trail, shoes off, walking through the water.

“Is it worth it?” I asked.

The guy chuckled, gave me a quizzical look, and said, “Of course,” as he passed me in his wet bare feet.

Enough. I untied my hiking shoes, stripped off my socks, and stepped into the cold running water.

Around this time I had a brief-but-emotional conversation with M. It went a little something like this:

“For the last two years, I feel like I’ve been constantly living outside my comfort zone. So why am I still outside my comfort zone? When will I be comfortable again?” –me

“You keep picking to do these things, and you know we can stop any time. Do you want to stop?” –M

“Of course not!” –me

“Why not?” –M

“Because then my life would be small, and I don’t want a small life. Also, because I am stubborn.” –me

“If being stubborn is what gets you to see the waterfall, then I’m glad your stubborn.” –M

And with that, he took my hand, helped me onto the bank, and we continued on to an amazing view.

The payoff.

Surveying how far I've come (or something like that)

Of course it was worth it.

Picking my way back across the river, feeling triumphant and silly.

Don’t forget to enter my crazy sexy giveaway for Kris Carr’s new book! You have until midnight PST this Thursday (the 20th) to enter!

Because I have so much to share and such limited time with the Internet–and, let’s be honest, this is not the time to be glued to a screen–I thought I’d let pictures courtesy of my amazing new Nikon D5000 (thank you, family!) do the talking. (Remember you can click any of the many photos below to enlarge.) Without further ado…

Annual NYE Kiss (I make the hubs take one every year)

Our View in Phoenix

Obligatory Hollywood Shot

Enjoying a French-inspired (read: wine & cheese) picnic at the Getty Museum in L.A.

Having way too much fun falling out of yoga poses in a friend's back yard in L.A.

Lunch at Venice Beach in L.A.

Fireside yoga at the W Hotel bar in L.A. (What--like you've never done yoga at a bar before? Oh...)

Sunset from our friend's deck in Manhattan Beach, L.A.

Wine tasting at Coquelicot in the Santa Ynez Valley, with the brilliant James as our guide

Indoor Pool at Hearst Castle

My very happy husband: campfire, stars, ocean view.

Our campsite at Limekiln State Park. I was still asleep (or, at least, huddled up) in that tent when the hubs snapped this gorgeous photo.

Waking up after my very first night camping. So many layers!

Elephant Seal birthing season north of San Simeon

I am Elephant Seal, hear me roar!

These two mama elephant seals were really having it out.

You can barely see it, but nested at the top of that rear hump is my dream house, overlooking Pfeiffer Beach at Big Sur.

I was mesmerized by this rock at Pfeiffer Beach at sunset.

I was also rather mesmerized by this handsome guy at Pfeiffer Beach at sunset.

The sunset at Pfeiffer Beach, Big Sur.

Coastal waterfall at Pfeiffer State Park in Big Sur. This used to be the view from a couple's private home. Can you imagine?!

View at the top of our hike of the Buzzard's Roost loop in Big Sur. We saw a rainbow on our way home.

Whew! I know that’s a lot of photos (and golly if that didn’t take a long time to load/caption!), but I hope you liked seeing what we’ve been up to so far. And to think–we still have San Francisco, the Redwood National Forest, and Portland on our itinerary!

For all my international travel, seeing my own country is somewhat new to me–and I’ve been awed so far. Have you done much domestic travel? What were your favorite sites?

This time around, I thought I’d try my hand at creating a gift guide for you. I tried to select products that were made by small, U.S. based companies and reflect my passion for travel and healthy living. That said, some things are listed just because they’re fun, not because they have a truly green component. Here are some of my favorite finds this year.*

For the Travel Nut

Last spring, I splurged on LuluLemon’s The Mat after I wore through my last yoga mat. I love it, but it’s too heavy and bulky to bring on my travels. That’s why I’m recommending The Mat-Travel ($38) for your favorite passport-wielding yogini.

I haven’t used it yet, but the Tribest Personal Blender ($69.99) my own wish list this holiday season based on rave reviews by the likes of Ani Phyo. Powerful enough to whip up a mean green smoothie, and small enough to fit in your luggage. Win-win!

Most travelers I know love having a slick camera to record their trips. What they don’t love is constantly worrying that their precious DSLR is going to break or be stolen. Enter the Crumpler 5 Million Camera Bag ($85) from REI. It can fit a camera body, an extra lens, and a few small accessories, but the best part is, it looks more like a messenger bag than a camera bag, so the person carrying it isn’t an easy target.

A hilarious friend gave us a few of these Inventive TravelWare Luggage Tags ($4.75 each) as part of our wedding gift. They make me crack up every time we pack our unpack our bags (read: all the time), and I’m never afraid someone’s going to accidentally walk off with my bags.

Still not finding the right thing? Maybe your friends and family should set up accounts at WiseGifter.com. This company is run by Bessie and Kyle, a wonderful, nomadic, husband-and-wife team currently living the dream in Thailand. (They also just happen to be friends of mine.) We used WiseGifter for one of our wedding registries, and got everything from food and drinks on our honeymoon to financing for a hike to Mt. Everest Base Camp. In a word: Awesome.

For the Eco-Conscious Fashionista

I bought one of these Envirosax ($8.95) years ago. It lives in my purse and has hauled countless heavy bags of groceries, all with no visible signs of wear and tear. Love them so much, I bought them for my mom and bridesmaids. Perfect stocking stuffer.

This Philadelphia-based company makes me drool. And Bario-Neal has amazing ethical practices. If anyone wants to buy me that ring, it runs around $154…

TranquiliT, which is based in D.C. and makes clothes from organic bamboo, discontinued my favorite dress (boo!), but they still have lots of great choices, like this 3/4 sleeve wrap dress ($108). (For the record, I don’t think that photo does it justice.)

I always feel good buying presents from Ten Thousand Villages, and this Recycled Silk Scarf ($18) from Nepal would make any woman smile. In fact, wouldn’t it look cute with that TranquiliT dress?

Amira Mednick is another friend of mine whose work I go gaga over. Now based in Portland, OR, all of her work is made by hand. Stock up. Wear often. Savor. Those Buddha Earrings ($30) are a great place to start.

*Of course, I couldn’t post some of the really great stuff I’m giving to people I love; I wouldn’t want to spoil the surprise.

Post-July burnout hit me hard. Old me would have continued to push push push just because I thought I should. New me realizes just how silly that is, so I savored my newfound downtime and gave myself a week–which wound up stretching into two–to just relax. When I wasn’t working, I was probably curled up on the couch in my pajamas watching Law & Order in unfathomably long stretches. At first I worried that I was being lazy (and really, what’s wrong with that once in a while?), but I soon realized it was important for me to indulge in this quiet time following 85 hour workweeks and in advance of the wonderful whirlwind that will be September and October.

We are moving back to the States in twelve days! Don’t get me wrong, this past year has been a blessing in so many ways (I started to list them here, but realized that accounting of blessings needed its own post.), but holy smokes am I ready to be back to familiar territory. I’ve been spending a good chunk of time going through our apartment, selling bigger items (bike) and trying to find homes for things we’re giving away (pantry items, puzzles), sorting clothes into donation piles and those that are coming back with us.  Then there’s that little matter of trying to spend some quality time with people I’ve grown close to and won’t see until next summer.

I’ve been dreaming and scheming. Again, this is going to get its own post–or a few–but I have finally discovered the deliciousness of Gala Darling‘s Love & Sequins and Danielle LaPorte‘s Fire Starter Sessions. I have been a bit rabid about devouring the brilliance these ladies have put down on paper, and I’ve been spending a good bit of time thinking about how I want to implement some of these ideas. In fact, I was so taken with the Fire Starter Sessions, I’ve signed up to be an affiliate. This means that if you use this link to but buy the Fire Starter Sessions, Danielle will generously share some of the proceeds with me, in addition to the charities she already donates to. In that spirit, I will be donating an additional $5 from any FSS purchase to YogaHOPE, a sensational organization that provides free yoga sessions to survivors of domestic abuse.

Our wedding is fast approaching. I can’t believe I get to marry the man of my dreams in…66 days! The reality of how much will have to get done once I get home is a bit overwhelming, so I’ve been trying to take care of some details from here and plan a timeline for accomplishing tasks without driving myself–and my loved ones–nuts. Thankfully, I have some wonderfully talented and generous people in my life who are helping pull together details to make this celebration awesome.

Disincentives Bet Round 2 is in full swing. Yes, I needed to rest and recuperate after July, but I also needed to attend to my health and fitness. Plus, I’m not gonna lie, I want to look extra fabulous in that wedding dress! To that end, together with some friends, I have embarked on another Palin Challenge. You guessed it: details about this will be in another post soon, too.

Whew! I think that pretty much sums all the big stuff. Now that I’m back in the groove, you can expect regular posts again, including a series I’m working on about the How Tos of owning your own health. If there are any specific topics you’d like me to cover, please let me know!

Lastly, here’s a friendly little reminder to subscribe to the RSS feed, follow me on Twitter, and join the Green Junkie Living Facebook fan page if you haven’t already.

[All images borrowed; please click image for original source link.]

Beatrix Kiddo, you're my hero.

On our recent travels, it became painfully aware that I am, how shall we say, woefully out of shape. I (mostly) eat well, and I’m somewhat flexible from the yoga, but when it comes to cardiovascular fitness, I pity my heart and lungs. And quite frankly, at 26 years old, that’s just sad. The good news is, all the hiking and biking we did, though it left me winded and with sore legs, reminded me that I actually enjoy working up a sweat outdoors. (Though I enjoy weight lifting and yoga inside, trying to power through cardio in a gym makes me miserable, so…I don’t.)

Halfway up Jirisan

I have spent so much time and energy in the past few years trying to figure out how to get healthy, how to get my body to work with me instead of against me. The phenomenal news is, I think I finally have figured it out. I know what fuels my body and what poisons it,* and I know just how important adequate sleep and regular yoga are to my well-being.

At the top of Jirisan. With a stone I can't read.

Then, on our vacation, I had what, to me, seemed like a radical thought: Now that my body works, I wonder what this puppy can do?! Could I do distance runs like Brigit and Jen? Could I finally tackle the pesky push-up goal? (For the record, my current push-up count brings me to a lifetime total of…zero. Yikes.) Could I bike a metric century? Could I do yoga every day for a hundred days a la Mel?

Wine in a can, handsome fiance, and the bikes we rode all over Gyeongju. I love the color of mine, but hated the seat.

The more I started thinking about the possibilities, the more excited I got. I reflected on what I know about myself and exercise, and started making a plan of attack. First: exercise for the sake of exercise or vanity=boring. Training=awesome. Second: I’m a competitive little bugger. (Please see any board game I have ever played for reference.) Third: research and metrics and knowledge get me pumped. Fourth: I’m not good at doing things half way.

All this led to the logical conclusion that I would 1) train for a 10k this fall, 2) train to bike a metric century before I leave Seoul at the end of August, and 3) train to do 25 push-ups in a row by September. If Mel (yogini and web genius) designs a 100 day yoga training, I’ll do that, too.

Clearly, the operative word here is training. I need goals. I need to know what I’ve accomplished so I can either stop contentedly or push on for more. If I’m training for something, I can’t miss a workout; it would screw up my entire training schedule, which would drive me nuts.

Loving the big sky at the top of the mountain

It’s also important to note that I’m not doing this in a vacuum. Michael’s training for the 10k with me, and I’m already loving running together. Friends are answering my endless questions about form and schedules. I even embraced my full inner dork/athlete and joined dailymile.com on the advice of the Holistic Health Junkie, and I’m mildly obsessed. By the way–if you’re on there, or you want to join and get started, go ahead and friend me so we can cheer each other on!

I know my goals are ambitious, and with the crazy summer schedule (13 hour days M-F, and another 9 or 10 hours on Sat, not counting prep work) coming up, I might fall short. But if nothing else, I think this training, coupled with what I know about giving my body the fuel it needs, will give me the stamina to get through the end of August, health intact. Stay tuned for details and updates, and goal revisions as I enter this latest phase of getting to know this body I’ve been given.

I leave you with this image of an absolutely glorious and enormous field of yellow flowers. I couldn't wait to go stand and revel in it.

*Nothing earth shattering here, folks. Good: plant-based protein, green smoothies, my magic enzyme powder, super foods. Poison: gluten, sugar, processed “foods”, animal products. This isn’t to say I never put the poison in, but it’s far less, and I understand the consequences.

Soaking up some sunshine on the rocks in the river at the end of the tea festival.

I know it’s been a little quiet on here lately, but with good reason. First, Michael and I took a lovely vacation around southern South Korea, finally getting to see a bit of the country we’ve been living in. Then the ever-wonderful Mel, who designed this site initially, granted me yet another request and moved the action over to greenjunkieliving.com.  I still own the old URL for another year or so, but please go ahead and reset any bookmarks and RSS feeds if those are giving you trouble.

Before I recap and some highlights of our trip, I want to thank everyone who weighed in on the name change. It made the process much easier! So now I’m going to call on your talents again: this blog needs a new banner. Ideas, suggestions, and (if you’re feeling extra awesome on a given day) mocked up banners are all greatly appreciated!

My work shut down for a week at the start of the month in celebration of Children’s Day. Seeing as I usually work six days a week, it’s been tough for us to see much of Korea, even though it’s a relatively small country. We took advantage of this guaranteed break from classes (which did feel a little silly, as I had only taught two classes since mid-March…) and booked a trip. We started with a group trip through Adventure Korea to climb Jirisan (the biggest “mountain” in Korea–at 1400 meters) and attend a green tea festival, then we broke off on our own and headed to Gyeong-ju, which was once the seat of the Silla empire. I have lots of photos to share, but for some reason with all the switcharoos on here, I keep getting “HTTP error” alerts when I try to upload. With any luck I’ll have that resolved soon, and for now, here are a few from the first part of the trip that I “borrowed” from a friend’s facebook page.

View from the top of Jirisan on a hazy day

Singing Sweet Caroline--for the first of many times that night.

Nothing like a bunch of foreigners picking green tea on a Sunday morning

The tea leaves are poured into a giant, hot bowl and then constantly lifted and tossed. We're pretty sure this is to release excess moisture, but our translator was unclear about the process.

After heating the leaves, they're transferred to a woven mat where they're crushed and massaged. Again, I think this is to release more moisture, but it was unclear.

Finally, the leaves are transferred to large screens to finish drying.